The Schooner Adventuress: Coupeville to Bellingham, WA Part One

         We couldn’t see the double masts of the Schooner Adventuress peeking above the building at the end of the long Coupeville wharf where we’d seen them the night before.  Now, a little after five in the morning we couldn’t see much beyond the pier through the mist and rain but we knew the ship should be there.  DB, Sally, Rob and I were to travel the Coupeville to Bellingham leg of the People for Puget Sound voyage on the Adventuress marking the 20th anniversary of the organization.  This eight hour voyage was heralded as the most spectacular of all the legs because it included traveling through Deception Pass, the treacherous narrow opening between Whidbey Island and Fidalgo Island through which many a ship had spun out of control by powerful currents and tidal forces and crashed against the adjacent basalt cliffs.

Publicity photo of Deception Pass noticeably lacking

RAIN, MIST, and FOREBODING

As a child I’d been warned about the dreaded “Deception Pass” when cruising with my family from our Whidbey Island beach cabin and that was the reason the four of us were shivering on the pier at the crack of dawn because the tides wouldn’t allow a safe passage later at a more respectable time of day.   I had many misgivings that morning; the least of which was the absent schooner.  We’d celebrated my 63^rd birthday well beyond my normal bedtime the night before and we’d celebrated with numerous toasts.  The weather was typical PNW: wet, cold, with a forecast of more to come.  We’d been advised that all food served on board would be vegan and no alcohol allowed.  Green tea with a spritz of cayenne wasn’t going to do it for my head and stomach both of which were staging personal coups.

“It’s not here; let’s go,” grumbled Rob.  “Oh, come on, it’s gotta be near” Sal replied leading us out on the pier.  Each of us pulled our coat hoods tighter as the rain noticeably increased.  Two other travelers snuggled under the roof overhang of the wharf building awaited us at the end of the pier.  “Waiting for the Adventuress?” “Yup,” they replied in unison and took sips from their cans of Red Bull.  “There it is,” Sal blurted, pointing to a bank of mist out of which the tall masted long narrow shape emerged and slowly made its way toward us under diesel power.  “Oh, they must have needed to anchor further down Penn Cove,” Sal remarked cheerfully.  “Well, it’s too cold and too wet and I’m not going,” Rob responded, voicing my thoughts.  “It’ll be an adventure,” Sal countered.  And it was. 

Does the unnamed person in the middle look like she's enjoying her adventure?  Notice the careful route plotting in the foreground and super tanker in the background.  Thanks to Josh, PPS board member, for documenting this moment.  Our camera was left at home with hats, mittens, red meat, and the other ten essentials. 

  

   

The Schooner Adventuress: Coupeville to Bellingham, WA Part Two

People for Puget Sound isn't an entirely humorless non-profit organization but it's hard to keep your sense of humor when battling for legislation to protect this essential body of water from a myriad of destructive forces threatening its health.  I won't list the number of ways this organization is working to better educate and instruct in positive Puget Sound management but urge you to visit their website (pugetsound.org) and read for yourself.

Likewise, Sound Experience (soundexp.org) doesn't joke about environmental issues affecting our "Salish Sea" nor do crew members of its Schooner Adventuress take lightly ship board responsibilities and safety.  If you are looking for deck chairs and cocktails don't venture toward the Adventuress.  On May 15, 2011 the six shivering passengers who boarded ship at Coupeville, Wa, on that dismal, cold, morning needed strong coffee and some cheering up.  But nobody laughed when Rob suggested changing our destination from Bellingham to Oahu and nobody answered where's the "Yo, ho, ho and a shot of rum in the java?"  With the sails stowed and the 133ft schooner motoring at a mere 7 knots,  with unrelenting rain and mist obscured islands,  with dark clouds above and still six hours to go I couldn't imagine the ship pictured below.

Historic Schooner Adventuress not pictured on May 15, 2011

Now here was the Schooner Adventuress that would warrant a loud "Oh my, I'd love to be aboard that."  But that ship was nowhere to be found.  Also missing was the skinny little girl who used to swim in Puget Sound until her lips turned blue, and her cousin Nancy who could fish with a hand line for sole from the anchored dingy "Clamshell" off the family cabin bulkhead for hours rain or shine, and the jovial professor Rob telling Irish jokes, and the hardy Hobie Cat sailor making the Three Tree Point to Vashon run on a December afternoon.  They'd been replaced by four whiney, soaked to the skin, grumpy old wimps who barely managed to keep from slapping their 20 perky and passionate fellow shipmates as each told name, reason for being on board, and favorite hot beverage, during the icebreaker friendship circle held in the rain on deck after breakfast.  (I never knew there were so many ways to prepare chai tea!!!)  There was one light moment when it was DB's turn and he announced that his name was Duane and he was an alcoholic.  After "muster" we were informed that now we would all do ship chores until lunch.  I think I heard Rob whimper.

"When does this story become happy?" you ask.  It becomes happy when Nancy scores the chore of washing breakfast dishes in hot hot water in the toasty ship galley.  When Sally finds we can trade in our not rain-proof, not rain-resistant but rain-absorbent jackets for the extra rain slickers stashed in a storage locker on deck.  When black rain boots are offered to replace soaked Mary Jane exercise shoes. When DB and Rob inhale the cinnamon smell of freshly baked coffee cake.  When the perky and passionate laugh at our jokes. When pouring becomes sprinkling becomes drizzling becomes misting.  When dark clouds lighten,  and fingers warm.  And finally, when someone who will go unnamed, gets to play skipper.

Big cheers to People for Puget Sound and the terrific crew of the Schooner Adventuress.